Barcelos is a medieval town steeped in history. Progress, far from eliminating traces of the past, has enhanced them, giving the town a unique identity. This can be felt immediately on entering Barcelos from the south, when crossing the magnificent 14th-century bridge.
A stroll through the historic centre also offers images of rare beauty. The old medieval streets, exceptionally well preserved, invite us to wander without thinking about the time. As well as interesting Baroque houses, Barcelos has several other monuments and sites:
the Parish Church, now a National Monument, dates from the 13th century, although it has been considerably altered over the centuries; the Archaeological Museum is housed in the ruins of the Paço dos Condes de Barcelos; the Pillory in both Romanesque and Gothic styles; the church of Nossa Senhora do Terço, with stunning panels of tiles and gilt woodcarvings in its interior; and many others.
The town has always been associated with Pottery and with one of the most famous national symbols: the Cockerel of Barcelos. Originally designed with garish colours, the Cockerel of Barcelos can now be founded with different patterns and even a more stylised although still recognisable shape.
Legend of the Cockerel of Barcelos
A Galician pilgrim was about to continue his pilgrimage, setting off from Barcelos in the direction of Santiago de Compostela, when he was accused theft and sent to the gallows. Led before the judge, who was preparing himself for a banquet with roast cockerel, the pilgrim told the judge that the cockerel would sing to prove his innocence. Incredulous, the judge ignored the “threat” but when the pilgrim was about to die, the cockerel really did stand up and sing. Frightened and surprised, the judge ran to the gallows to prevent the punishment that he had ordered. He then discovered that the pilgrim was saved thanks to a poorly tied knot. He was immediately set free and sent away in peace.
It is also said that, years later, the Galician returned to sculpt the Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo, which is now in the Archaeological Museum.
PLACES TO VISIT
Pottery Museum
The Pottery Museum was set up in Barcelos in 1963, reflecting the region’s strong traditions in this type of ceramics. Originally known as the Regional Ceramics Museum, it was set up following the donation of a significant collection of ceramics made in the municipality, collected by Joaquim Selles Paes de Villas Boas, a local ethnographer.
The collection has been subsequently been enriched with new pieces from other regions and objects that are not ceramics but from related fields. This expansion of the collection has led to successive changes in its name, from Regional Ceramics Museum, to Museum of Popular Portuguese Ceramics and finally Pottery Museum (Museu de Olaria) as it is now known.
The collection has naturally grown over the years and now includes more than 7,000 pieces from Portugal and Portuguese-speaking countries. Red pottery, black pottery, figurative work and tiles are the basis of a collection that illustrates the history of a culture.
Situated since 1995 in the centre of Barcelos, the Museum is housed in a 17th-century building known as Casa dos Mendanhas Benevides Cyrne.
More information at http://www.museuolaria.org
