Historically associated with the Fs of the poet Júlio Ribeiro – Farta, Fria, Fidalga e Feiticeira (Rich, Cold, Noble and Bewitching) –, changes in the city justified the current 5 Fs that better characterise the modern city. “Forte” (strong) for its monumental grandeur, “Farta” (rich) for the wealth of the Mondego valley, “Fria” (cold) for the proximity to the Serra da Estrela, “Fiel” (faithful) for its historical refusal to hand over the key of the city to the King of Castile and “Formosa” (beautiful) for its natural beauty.
Set on the northern slopes of the Serra da Estrela, Guarda is the highest city in Portugal, at an impressive 1056 metres.
As a result of this geographical location, the climate is marked by winters that are sometimes rigorous, although its air is often of great purity. This was behind the construction in 1907 of a tuberculosis sanatorium and its classification as “Iberian Bioclimatic City” in 2002.
The region is at the junction of three watersheds – Mondego, Douro and Tagus –, which converge in Vale de Estrela in the vicinity of Guarda.
Archaeological finds and visible traces such as the Anta de Pera do Moço dolmen point to the presence of humans in the region since the late Neolithic and early Chalcolithic. Finds from the Bronze and Iron ages are also evidence linking the area to mining and mining routes.
Founded in the 12th century by Sancho I, the purpose of the town was to watch and defend the border, a role that was in the origin of its name. The Castle, built at the start of the following century, was part of a network of fortifications that included the castles of Celorico da Beira, Trancoso and Jarmelo, among others.
Fighting against the neighbouring kingdoms, first the Kingdom of León, then Castile and finally Spain, profoundly marked the history of the city and resulted in a detail still visible today on the Cathedral, a gargoyle in the shape of a “backside” facing the border. This detail, a popular attraction for tourists, is demonstrative of the contempt felt for its “neighbours” but was also a challenge to them.
Guarda currently has excellent road links to three main routes: Lisbon and the south via the A23, Porto or Madrid via the A25 and also Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro via the IP2. For those who prefer to travel by rail, the town is also well served with connections to the whole country and is even on the main connection to the centre of Europe for passengers and goods transport.
Cultural life expressed in variety of artistic forms reflects a city in which people are still able to enjoy their free time.
Although the city has grown considerably in recent years and has spread from the hilltop into the surrounding valleys, there is notable concern with green spaces. New and old gardens offer opportunities to rest on café terraces and garden benches.
The city centre is ideal for a leisurely tour on foot. In the historic centre, care has clearly been taken to revitalise old buildings and to ensure that new buildings fit in. Shops vie for the attention of pedestrians and pastry shops invite us to snack with friends. It is time to regain our strength.
Here, there is still quality of life and this can be felt in the streets of this medieval city that once appeared in the poetry of Sancho I: “Ay muito me tarda / O meu amigo na Guarda”.
PLACES TO VISIT:
Cathedral:
This majestic and imposing cathedral overlooks a magnificent square lined with old arcaded buildings. Begun in the 12th century during the reign of João I, its construction lasted four hundred years, which is why it combines both Gothic and Manueline architecture.
On the main façade is a Manueline portal with twisted columns and an ogee arch, housing a statue of the Virgin of the Assumption. It is flanked by two octagonal bell towers bearing two coats of arms of the Bishop Pedro Vaz Gavião.
Inside, the space reveals a Latin cross plan, with a nave flanked by two aisles. The chancel arch is set on granite tracery capitals and the vault is closed by a large suspended pine cone. The spectacular chancel, lit by three Gothic windows, culminates in an impressive Renaissance retable by João Ruão, with 100 figures carved from Ançã stone.
Misericórdia Church:
This is a Baroque building from the Joanine period, dating from the reign of João V.
The façade is elegant and harmonious. The bell towers that flank the beautiful pediment are surmounted by square-based pyramidal domes, topped by two iron weathervane crosses. Over the main door is a depressed arch crowned by a shield with the arms of João V.
The interior, with a single nave covered by a wooden vaulted roof is spacious and elegant. The altars, retables and pulpits are in Joanine Baroque wood carving.
Church of São Vicente:
This church dates from the late 17th century
The Baroque façade comprises two bell towers between which is a portal surmounted by the coat of arms of Bishop Jerónimo de Carvalhal, responsible for its reconstruction.
Jewish Quarter:
The Jewish quarter is perfectly integrated into the city centre. The streets are narrow and cobbled and on the walls and doorposts of the houses we can still see religious symbols that marked the presence of Jews and demonstrate the importance of this community in the region.
Victims of persecution by the Inquisition in the Middle Ages, harassed Jews were welcomed and protected by the local population. Many came from the neighbouring kingdom and settled here, contributing to the economic and social development of the region.
In the border regions, this influence can also be detected in other towns such as Trancoso and Belmonte.
